St. John, USVI: So Many Great Beaches and Hikes
St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands is a true paradise, offering travelers plenty of adventure and relaxation in one beautiful location. With its stunning vistas of the Caribbean Sea, miles of white sandy beaches, and lush tropical forests, St. John has something for every type of traveler. Snorkel at Trunk Bay, one of the most popular beaches on the island, with its stunning views and white sand. Take a short hike to the Annaberg Sugar Plantation and explore the ruins. Hike the Reef Trail to a deserted beach in The Virgin Islands National Park which protects two-thirds of the island. Rent a dinghy boat or kayak to explore the many coves and bays along the coastline. Whether you‘re looking for an adventure–filled vacation or a peaceful getaway, St. John has it all.
If you’re planning a one–week vacation in St. John, there’s a lot to do and see. To make the most of your time, here are a few suggestions to help you craft an unforgettable experience.
These are my honest opinions and recommendations — I do not receive any compensation or discounts during our travel. This story does include some affiliate links for which I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Please click the links to support my blog.
General Information and Advice
Is it expensive?
St. John is considered one of the more expensive islands in the Caribbean, but there are ways to save money when traveling to this Caribbean paradise. Take time to look at the total price before you dismiss this this trip based on travel, food, and lodging costs. How does that total look when your days are filled up just exploring the island and not on expensive tours. Also, do you have Westin points? Airbnb and VRBO are great websites to find a rental home that fits your budget and needs.
What makes St. John different from other Caribbean islands?
Our first trip to St. John was a lovely five-day couples getaway when our kids were little. Fast forward 10-years and we enjoyed an active week with our three teenage boys, creating wonderful new memories on St. John. Not a lot has changed, but we noticed that the streets are a lot cleaner. And. That. Is. Good.
- As a US territory, a passport is not required for entry for US citizens. But bring your passport if you have one so you can day-trip to the British Virgin Islands. Highly recommended!
- About 60 percent of St. John is designated as a National Park. So enjoy the nature and add that stamp to your USA National Parks Passport Book.
Where to stay
Cruz Bay, the main town on St. John, is where the ferry arrives and departs. You will find the most lodging options in this area but be aware, a condo that looks close to town may be up very steep hills. Think black-diamond ski verticals! This can be fun and exciting…or a deal-breaker with little kids or mobility issues. I recommend Cruz Bay or the nearby Westin for your first trip to the island. Note: Use a taxi for the walk to Cruz Bay from the Westin — there are sections without sidewalks and it is a busy and hilly street.
We have stayed at the Westin and also at an Airbnb atop one of the hills in Cruz Bay. From the Airbnb, we did the steep walk into town almost every day. The driving and parking were very intense, like going up and down the top of a rollercoaster. But it did get easier every day. Engage the 4WD — you will definitely need it. If you are looking to get away from it all then consider lodging over in Coral Bay.
Rental car and driving on the island
I highly suggest you rent a vehicle so you can get out and explore St. John — even if it is just for a day or two of your trip. Otherwise, you will miss some really great spots. Note: They drive on the left side of the road in the Virgin Islands. If you are not comfortable with this on some very hilly and windy roads then consider hiring taxis or doing a full-day island tour. Reserve your rental car as early as possible because the vehicles are limited and once they are gone, they are gone. Make sure it is a 4WD — you will definitely need this if it is rainy or if your lodging is on one of the very steep hills.
Be aware that while the speed limit is 20 — 35 mph, the windy and hilly roads are not for the faint of heart. Watch out for donkeys, goats, pigs, sheep, and even peacocks on the roads. Then, add in driving on the left side and glare from the sunshine. Whooee! Passengers, remind your driver to “STAY LEFT”. Often!
Packing tips
Leave your high heels and fancy outfits at home. St. John is a very casual island. Do pack your snorkel and mask though as they are handy to have for beach hopping. The winter water was quite calm so you will be okay without fins if you are a good swimmer. I only mention this because we like to pack lightly. However, be very careful that you do not step on spiny sea urchins.
Stay on St. John or day-trip from St. Thomas?
If you like nature and a casual island vibe then St. John is your island. You will not find sprawling resorts or chain restaurants; there is not even an airport as you will arrive via a ferry. So, if you want a resort and more infrastructure then consider St. Thomas and do a day trip or more to St. John. It is easy to take the ferry between these two islands.
We booked our recent trip very last minute when another vacation got canceled. Rental vehicles were all sold out but I was able to find St. John lodging that included a Jeep for five nights. So we spent the first two nights on St. Thomas in West Cowpet Bay near Red Hook. It was actually good to spend some time on St. Thomas so my teenage boys got a bit of a feel for that island as well. But I do not recommend this unless you have to get creative due to lodging or budget.
Itinerary Tips
The beauty of this trip is that the daily activities can be done in any order.
Some days are just beach days and others mix in other activities to round out your trip to St. John. You may need to get up and out early for a parking spot at some of the more popular beaches. There is also good turnover in the afternoon so just be patient if the lots are full. You can also reach some great beaches taking the hiking trails from Cruz Bay: Salomon Beach (1.4 miles) and Honeymoon Beach (1.5 miles).
1 | Trunk Bay and the northwest beaches
Trunk Bay
This is a MUST-VISIT beach and is super popular for good reason! The picture-perfect clear turquoise blue water and long white sand beach with a small off-shore island are absolutely stunning. Find some shade under a sea grape tree. Snorkel out to the nearby island on the right-side end where there is the Coral Reef Underwater Park Trail. It was too rough for us to actually see the underwater trail. Or maybe not very well maintained? I do not know. There is an entrance fee of $5 per person (16 and older) at this beach. I forgot my US National Parks Annual Pass but I heard they do not take it here.
Be sure to pull over at the Trunk Bay Overlook, the most famous view on the island, on your way to or from the beach.
2 | Salt Pond Bay and the beaches out by Coral Bay
Salt Pond Bay
Salt Pond Beach is on the far side of the island past Coral Bay. We liked it so much that we went twice! There is a bit of a hike from the parking lot to the beach so try not to forget anything in the car! This is a great beach to spot turtles in the water. You can also swim out to the middle of the bay for coral and schools of fish. The Ram Head Trail also starts from this beach. There are no food vendors at this beach so pack some snacks and beverages.
The east end of the island has a much less developed look and feel — and fewer food options as well. Stop at Skinny Legs Bar and Grill on the way in or out of Coral Beach for a delicious burger.
North and South Haulover Beaches
Park once and go to North Haulover Beach and South Haulover Beach. There is a short narrow path to the north beach and the snorkeling was better on that side. However, it was exciting to see a sleeping nurse shark on the south side.
Princess Bay mangrove snorkeling
This is kind of a random outing that everyone may not enjoy, so know your group before setting any exceptions. You can do as part of a tour or on your own. Witness a natural fish nursery as you snorkel close to shore along the mangrove roots circling the shoreline. It is very shallow so you have to stay quite still as to not kick up much sediment. I liked this more than my teens — maybe because I am more patient? I just loved seeing mini-versions of the fish and sea creatures we saw while snorkeling. There were also a lot of sea cucumbers and sea stars in the area. Princess Bay is part of Hurricane Hole.
3 | Plantation ruins + hike to snorkeling
Annaberg Sugar Plantation ruins
This is a fun little outing to take a break from the beach and so you can leave with a little history. It is free! Be sure to walk all around and inside as well. You can see smaller sugar mill ruins along the Reef Bay Trail.
Waterlemon Cay
We kept saying Water-melon, but it is actually Water-lemon! Parking is right past the Annaberg Sugar Mill ruins. Wear water or gym shoes because it is about a one-mile hike along the bay on some sharp little rocks. You will walk all the way around the bay to the point near a small island. Always be careful for sea urchins as you enter the water to snorkel. There is nice snorkeling all around the island. But please only do this if the water conditions are favorable and not too rough, especially on the backside of the island. We saw a sleeping nurse shark and several stingrays on our swim out to the island!
Waterlemon Cay had the best snorkeling we found on the island, but nothing compared to Roatan or some other tropical islands we have visited — everything is relative.
4 | The northern beaches
Maho Bay
The beach at Maho Bay has a different feel from the others with a group of food trucks, trendy seating, and games right across the street. I saw many TripAdvisor reviews with a distaste for the vibe it has created, but we enjoyed the setting and the food and drinks! This is also a great beach to find sea turtles while snorkeling and maybe even a stingray or two.
Cinnamon Beach
Nearby Cinnamon Beach is the longest beach on St. John. Save some time to walk the entire stretch of white sand or maybe the America Hill via Cinnamon Bay Trail across the street.
Francis Bay
Also visit nearby Francis Bay with nice snorkeling on the far right side. There is a hike there that we did not do, but it is on my list for next time!
5 | Reef Bay Trail
This is a wonderful half-day hike that mixes in a waterfall with ancient rock carvings, sugar plantation ruins, and deserted beaches. We did it the first time with a National Park Ranger tour where a bus took us to the top of the hike and a boat met us at the end for a quick ride back to Cruz Bay. They were not running the tour in 2020 so we did it on our own — yes, that means down and up! It is noted as a strenuous hike up but you will be fine if you are fit, just bring plenty of water — like 2-3 bottles per person.
Take the spur to the waterfall for some cool petroglyphs, historic stone walls, and a lot of hermit crabs. On your way down to the beach be sure to explore inside, around, and behind the mill’s ruins.
6 | All-day boat tour
An all-day boat trip to Jost Van Dyke and the Baths on Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands makes for one fantastic day out on the water! You need to bring passports along and note that the customs fee may or may not be included with your tour. Enjoy snorkeling, walking through the giant rocks at the Baths, and a rum drink at Soggy Dollar Bar in the beautiful White Bay. We had an awesome tour with Bad Kitty when we visited without kids in 2010.
If you did not bring a passport then consider a different boat tour or rent a dinghy boat to explore on your own. Our family did Stormy Pirate’s boat tour circumnavigating St. John when the British borders were closed due to the COVID-19 pandemic. There were some nice snorkeling stops and the taco lunch at the floating LimeOut was a unique experience. It is always great to get out on the water, but it was a lot of sun for my teenage boys and they would probably have preferred another hike or renting a dinghy for the day.
7 | Explore the Cruz Bay area
Virgin Islands National Park Visitor Center
The National Park Visitor Center is always a good place to start! Get a stamp for your National Parks Passport Book! And, ask about hikes that fit your timing and interest. FYI: I recommend the Reef Bay Trail for a longer hike and Lind Trail or Peace Hill Trail for shorter hikes. Even though you are hiking, put snorkel equipment and swimsuits in the car because you will likely stop at a beach afterward.
Lind Point Trail
You can start the trail behind the National Park Visitor Center or there is a small parking lot up the road and at a large National Park sign. You can get to Solomon and Honeymoon Beaches from this trail.
Rent a dinghy boat to explore remote beaches
We went back and forth on this versus our all-day boat tour circumnavigating St. John. Should have done this instead and definitely want to do this next time!
Cruz Bay restaurants
The town is not very big and this is where you will find your souvenirs and the most restaurants. If you are looking for a sweet treat, there is a neat little popsicle shop in town. This is a nice alternative to the more expensive ice cream shops.
You will likely need to plan ahead and make a reservation for a lot of the restaurants. However, you do not need a reservation at Woodys, an in-town classic, or The Beach Bar, right on the bay. Mongoose Station, just up the road has restaurants as well and a nice courtyard dining area. However, my favorite spot is just outside of town, The Windmill Bar. They did not have a food menu when we were visiting so I can’t speak to that. But this is the place for a killer sunset with a nice drink in your hand.
Note: Starfish Market is the largest grocery store on the island. Grab your expensive groceries and inexpensive Cruzan Rum here.
