A Great Morocco Road Trip: Marrakesh to Fes
This itinerary was right up our alley. Cities. Mountains. Culture. Adventure. Camel ride to an overnight camp. All in one week. Bring it on! For the first time ever WE BOOKED A COMPLETE TOUR. Yes, I took the plunge and booked a seven-day private tour. Of course, a lot of folks vacation this way — not us! My travel style is to plan out and personally book our trips to get the best price and itinerary for our interests. Costs aside, however, it was a real treat to have someone else do all of the planning this time!
Beginning to plan your own trip? Here is some more information: Morocco Planning Tips and Reflection on Booking a Private Tour in Morocco.
These are my honest opinions and recommendations — I do not receive any compensation or discounts during our travel. This story does include some affiliate links for which I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Please click the links to support my blog.
Morocco Itinerary Snapshot
DAY 1| Arrive, Marrakesh (two nights)
DAY 2| Imlil in the High Atlas Mountains
DAY 3| Palace of Glaoui, Ait Benhaddou, Skoura (one night)
DAY 4| Skoura Palm Grove, Todres Gorge, Erg Chebbi Dunes (one night)
DAY 5| Erg Chebbi Dunes, Azrou Cedar Forest, Fes (two nights)
DAY 6| Fes
DAY 7| Fes, Volubilis, Depart
While no one complained, be prepared for A LOT OF DRIVING! You will see and do so much, but I admit to feeling a little rushed on a couple of tours. This was necessary to stay on schedule — but worth mentioning. Our tour provider suggested adding on two days but it did not work with our flights.
Some folks may want more time in the cities but we were happy with 1.5 days at each Marrakesh and Fes.
FITZ BITS TIP: Aim for a 10-day trip. With more time I would: 1) Stay in the High Atlas Mountains for another day of hiking, 2) Add an extra night between Marrakech and Fes for a full day in the desert, and 3) Add a full day of hiking, rock climbing, etc. in the Dades Gorge.
Day 1 | Marrakesh tour
The Marrakesh Airport is easy to navigate. our driver was right outside holding a Sun Trails sign. Check into your riad and get out right away for a tour of Marrakesh, the Red City. Note: Expect crowds in Marrakesh over New Year’s week.
Our guide, Mohamed took us to several monuments in and around the medina. Understand ahead of time if entrance fees are included with your tour. Walk around the circumference of the beautiful Koutoubia Mosque — non-Muslims cannot enter. View the Hall of Twelve Columns at the rediscovered Saadian Tombs. Explore the elaborate 19th-century Bahai Temple and learn the interesting history of its occupants. Understand that you do not need to see everything that Marrakesh has to offer. There are also gardens, museums, tanneries, Medersa Ben Youssef, and the Badi Palace — visiting all of these would just be too much sightseeing when traveling with teens. Also, balance the sites with the rest of your itinerary. For example, we would be touring a larger tannery and medersa in Fes.
I suggest taking time for lunch at one of the rooftop restaurants. Ask your riad or guide for a recommendation.
Then, in the afternoon, tour all around the vibrant souks within the medina. The labyrinth of narrow winding streets was clogged with people, motorbikes, and even donkeys. Spend time exploring the legendary Jemaa El Fna square with its spices, oils, dentures, creepy snake charmers, and leashed monkeys. A guide really keeps you on pace because there is so much to see and take in. What an introduction to Morocco!
Save some energy and time return to the souks on your own. To my surprise, things began to look familiar — but it was also fun getting lost. And no worries, all paths lead back to Jemaa El Fna where you can see the Koutoubia Mosque’s minaret and get your bearings. We felt safe, even at night, but be smart and aware as you would in any city or crowd.
A note about shopping
Get ready to negotiate for your items — this is the culture and is expected. Be kind and have a smile on your face. I was told that you should have a good price if you end up at 50% of their starting price. However this does not quite make sense because there is a lot of disparity in starting prices. Do not be afraid to shop around. Know that a “unique” or “antique” Berber panel is likely mass produced. Unzip the pouf ottoman or purse that you buy to inspect the quality. Check it again before leaving the store so it is not switched for another one.
It is OK to walk away. I was truly walking out of a shop when I was followed out and given my much lower price. Two times!
Are you shopping for one of those beautiful rugs? Bring your sizes and colors or photos of your space — and don’t be rushed. Be sure to measure the rug for yourself.
Marrakesh Accommodations
We had two rooms for two nights at the lovely quaint Riad D’ari right outside the historic medina. We had the best dinner of our trip here! The host, Khalid was so kind and welcoming and showed me how to make some of the delicious dishes. He also took me to a local spice shop to purchase spices and black soap. I liked this a lot better than buying them in the souks where we did not know the quality of items.
A note about food and alcohol
A lot of meals will be included with your riad and most will include tangine. While this meal is quite delicious, you may want to order something else when ordering from a menu. Only drink bottled water and eat cooked food unless you can peel it. If you like tea, do not pass up a glass of mint tea!
It is nearly impossible to find alcohol at restaurants in the Medina. However, we were able to order wine and beer at our riads. Also, our driver brought us to a Carrefour grocery store in Marrakesh and Ouarzazate to purchase wine and snacks for our journey between Marrakech and Fes. The alcohol section is in a separate side area.
Day 2 | High Atlas Mountain outing
We had a choice between 1) More Marrakesh including a Food Tour or 2) A hike and lunch in Imlil in the High Atlas Mountains. Well, that was an easy choice. Spoiler alert — it was even better than expected! Imlil is an hour-plus drive each way and a MUST-DO ACTIVITY from Marrakesh for any adventure traveler. We also saw a group going on a horseback ride from Imlil and many other activities in the area.
Women's Argan Oil Cooperative
If you are interested in the local argan oil, there is a Cooperative along the route to Imlil where you can stop for a demonstration. You can give a small tip or purchase some of this expensive oil. You are not missing too much if you skip this. I heard that you can also buy authentic argan oil at the grocery store — possibly for less money. However, I bought some oil to support the women.
Once in Imlil, we met our local guide, Hassan. Having a local guide really enhanced this experience. Hassan was always happy to explain things and answer our many questions. It was an easy hike along a lengthy irrigation system, across a small wooden bridge to a waterfall, above shepherds herding their flocks, and passing children in several mud-walled villages. We even stopped to play a marble game with a group of kids.
If offered to go into a Berber home to use their bathroom for a small fee — go for the experience even if you do not need to use the facilities. My husband and sons went one way while I was ushered to sit with the mother and daughter while she scaled a large fish. Quite an experience!
After about two hours of hiking and exploring, we ended up on the other side of the valley with a delicious and relaxing lunch on the rooftop of a local Berber home. What a terrific view of the villages and snow-capped High Atlas Mountains!
I highly suggest you stop in the magical Kasbah du Toubkal on your hike. It was selected as a National Geographic Unique Lodge of the World and you can visit without spending the night. It is a short walk from Imlil and along our hiking route. We paid a few euros which included a beverage on their lovely rooftop terrace. Flip through the photo book in their reception area recapping Prince Harry and Megan Markle’s 2019 visit.
Day 3 | A palace and the movies
Au revoir Marrakesh. Today’s five-hour drive along modern winding highways takes you up and over the top of the High Atlas Mountains. It will be hard to peel your eyes away from the stunning landscapes. Break up the long drive with a couple of tours along the way.
Telouet Kasbah / Palace of Glaoui
This would have been a treat to visit if we hadn’t seen other similar sites. It was a nice break on a long drive, but you are not missing much if you skip it. Now, if you are looking for a stop along the way, here you go! The palace is crumbling on the outside but very solid with ornately decorated walls and ceilings on the inside. Learn about the caravans and trade importance of salt in the area.
You will still see salt in the landscape along this part of your drive.
Ait Benhaddou
Continue through the Ounila Valley where you must stop to visit Ait Benhaddou. Many famous movies and TV shows have been filmed here including scenes from Lawrence of Arabia, Gladiator, The Mummy, The Prince of Persia, and Game of Thrones. Our private guide walked us through the ksar and we paid a little extra to go in one of the kasbahs (homes). We learned that our guide, and other locals, have been cast as extras in many of the movies — pretty cool. Be sure to go all the way to the top for a spectacular view.
Note: I think you can enjoy this excursion without a guide. Be sure to read up on some information in a guidebook or website beforehand. You can also visit movie set warehouses in the area but we did not do so.
Skoura Accommodations
We arrived at the Chez Talout hotel at sunset. The boys wanted more time here, but the inviting pool was not warm enough to enjoy in the winter. We had a large and comfortable family suite but my pillow and side of the bed were smelly. The dinner was just average but the breakfast was really good.
Day 4 | From oasis to sand dunes
Skoura
Get out and explore before leaving the area. After breakfast, we met a local guide and walked right behind the hotel for a hike through the Skoura palm grove. Learn about natural and man-made oases. At the end of the hike we were led inside the 17th-century Kasbah Amridil for more history, exploring, and a great view of the oasis.
Todra Grove and Dadès Valley
Today is a beautiful five-hour drive to the Erg Chebbi Dunes near the Algerian border. Break it up with a stop at the Dades Gorge and Todra Gorge for a nice scenic walk along the river. The drive is aptly named the Road of a Thousand Kasbahs. I would also add, a thousand switchbacks! If we had had more time I would stay in the Dades Gorge longer for hiking and rock climbing.
Two more stops: Tinjedad for lunch and ancient wells
If you want some local culture along the way, stop for lunch at a square in Tinjedad. We let our driver, Majid do the ordering. The tangine was delicious and what a great local casual atmosphere!
One last quick stop about 45-minutes before the dunes. What are all of those mounds in the landscape? Pull aside the road and climb up a mound of dirt where you will see an endless field of similar mounds, each with a hole at its center. These are ancient wells called qanats. The wells are now dry, so you can pay a couple of Euros to climb down and explore the underground channels. It does not look like much from above, but you will be surprised how deep and cavernous the wells actually are. Well worth a quick stop and stretch of the legs.
Camels to overnight campsite in the dunes
It is quite a drive to get to the Erg Chebbi Dunes, but this was the HIGHLIGHT OF OUR TRIP. As you near Merzouga, close to the Algerian border, pack up only what is needed overnight. Musicians were playing drums at the hotel entrance and we were greeted with tea and pastries. Then you head out back to meet the dromedary camels. It was fun getting up on these gentle animals. They had the most beautiful eyes and eyelashes! A guide leads you out into the sea of sand dunes. Leave the camels to rest and hike up one of the many large dunes to enjoy the most stunning sunset.
Then, ride your camel to the campsite which is nestled between your sunset dune and the row of hotels where the tours commence. There are varying levels from basic to luxury campsites. After another tagine dinner, the large tent was taken over by local dancers and musicians. We joined in the dancing which then moved outside to a campfire. Several groups of musicians stopped by and we all joined in dancing around the campfire and took turns playing the drums.
I awoke to fireworks at midnight. Happy New Year!
Merzouga Accommodations
Our overnight camp was based out of the Ksar Merzouga Hotel. We had two tents at their “Basic Camp” with a shared toilet. The camp was great for my crew but there are nicer options for a little more money.
It was quite cold at night even with layers of heavy blankets. 35-degrees Fahrenheit cold! Our driver said that March and October have more pleasant camping weather. By the way, you really only need your toothbrush, personal needs such as medicine, contact solution and glasses, and your warmest clothes. We slept in our clothes, jackets, and hats plus layered plenty of heavy blankets.
There was an outlet in the dining tent where someone plugged in a multi-cord phone charger — thank you!
Day 5 | The long road to Fes
We were awoken in time to ride the camels back out to the dunes for a cold but spectacular sunrise. Seeing the sun set and rise at the dunes of Erg Chebbi is a truly unforgettable experience. We rode the camels back to the hotel for warm showers and a buffet breakfast. My husband and I later admitted we would have rather trekked back and forth to sleep overnight in the hotel!
Today was a long seven-hour drive. You will leave the desert dunes behind and cross the never-ending Ziz Gorge and Middle Atlas Mountains. It was nice to have someone else doing the driving! And, if there was a hopper flight I would have taken it!
Ilfrane and Azrou Cedar Forest
The landscape along the journey to Fes continues to be incredibly diverse and beautiful. You won’t want to nap because you will miss passing shepherds with their flocks, groups of Berber nomads with their makeshift tents, and large dammed rivers with deep blue water after all of the vast open space. It is back to civilization as you come to Ifrane where the buildings and landscape feels like you are in Switzerland. It was very crowded on New Year Day!
Soon thereafter, leave time to stop at the Azrou cedar forest. Grab your camera and mingle amongst the wild and very friendly Barbary monkeys. Such cute and playful animals!
Fes Accommodations
We had two rooms for two nights at the beautiful Ryad Salama inside the Fes medina walls. A fellow met us with a cart for our bags and led the way down the numerous winding narrow alleys. The management and staff at this lovely riad were delightful.
Day 6 | Fes tour
We were surprised at how much larger and less touristy Fes felt from Marrakesh. We had a wonderfully knowledgable female guide who took us to a scenic view and then into the medina. Wander through the winding narrow maze-like paths amongst donkeys, wheelbarrows, and motorbikes. Visit a synagogue in the Jewish quarters, an old dormitory called a madrasa, along with several Cooperatives in and outside of the Medina. My FAVORITE STOP was climbing up a steep narrow staircase to a small second-floor room where there was a small preschool. To our delight, the children sang songs to us.
There are several Cooperatives that you really must see while in Fes: the Mosaic and Pottery Cooperative, the large and ancient Chouara Tannery, a scarf cooperative, and a carpet cooperative. And, just like in Marrakesh, go back to visit the souks on your own where some things will look familiar and where you are also very likely to get lost. It is fun and part of the adventure.
Day 7 | City green space, Roman ruins, and goodbye
Who can sleep in on your last day in Morocco? I enjoy finding green spaces in cities — and Fes had the lovely Jardin Jnana Sbil which is free to explore. Friday is a worship day so it was a peaceful and quiet morning.
Volubilis Roman ruins
ONE LAST OUTING! Our flight was not until the evening, so there was time for one more excursion. I was hesitant to add more driving but am so glad we visited the Roman ruins at Volubilis. The scenic drive was about 1.5 hours — we continue to be surprised with the diversity of landscapes throughout Morocco.
A local guide, another Majeed, took us around the ancient Roman ruins. Wander past columns, arches, and mosaics while you learn the history. There is also a small museum worth a visit before departing.
Goodbye my friend
Morocco was a fabulous discovery. We were sad to leave, but it was made easier knowing we had some time in Madrid and weren’t quite going home yet.
Saying goodbye to Majid was like saying goodbye to a good friend. Someone should really write a book or make a movie about this guy! He is a Berber who grew up as a nomad. He now calls himself a “luxury nomad.” Majid has no formal education but an education of experiences. He is fully knowledgeable about Moroccan history and speaks five languages. Because Majid was brave enough to take risks and venture out on his own, his younger siblings now have college educations.
Connections with drivers and guides can really enhance your journey. Do not be shy, spark conversation, and ask questions. Plus, it passes the time during all of that driving!
Visited in January 2020
